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For some, cod is solely a tasty fish we get pleasure from infrequently, however in Portugal, it’s a lifestyle. Portugal consumes extra cod than any European nation per capita, although most of it comes from Norway and Iceland.
In Portugal, bacalhau means cod, typically referring to the dried, salted selection somewhat than contemporary fish. After first attempting bacalhau in Lisbon, I rapidly understood the fuss. Some years later, I started my Lisbon meals excursions, and my affinity for Portuguese cod has continued to develop ever since.
I’ve misplaced depend of the locations I’ve sampled bacalhau in Lisbon, however these are the spots which have left an enduring impression on me.
A Casa do Bacalhau
Picture credit score: A Casa do Bacalhau
In the event you’re not staying near the Beato neighborhood in jap Lisbon, it’s price venturing out right here simply to go to A Casa do Bacalhau.
Even earlier than I bought a maintain of the menu, I used to be enamored with this place. I liked how the towering brick-clad arches contrasted with the shiny black furnishings and partitions full of up to date wine racks.
The cooks at A Casa do Bacalhau specialize on this beloved fish, utilizing it as the main target of greater than two dozen distinct cod dishes. Nonetheless, subsequent time I return right here, I’ll be going straight for the pataniscas de bacalhau once more.
Every bite-sized piece had a mushy mix of barely salty cod, crisp onions, and grassy parsley held collectively inside a crunchy golden batter. So far as cod fritters go, all the pieces from the feel to the flavors hit the mark.
A Casa do Bacalhau (€€) – Rua do Grilo 54, 1900-706 Lisboa, Portugal – Open day-after-day from 12:00 pm to 11:00 pm
Laurentina
Picture credit score: Laurentina
Laurentina within the Avenidas Novas district has been serving up bacalhau because the Nineteen Seventies, which was all I wanted to listen to to persuade me to go to!
Inside, Laurentina virtually looks like two totally different eating places. One part is easy, refined, and ambient, whereas in the direction of the again, there are beautiful stone assertion partitions and colourful floral preparations.
Whereas the fellows right here showcase some implausible examples of assorted Portuguese meals, their bacalhau menu is by far essentially the most in depth. I used to be eager to attempt the bacalhau com natas, as that they had a unusual tackle this traditional dish.
The bacalhau com natas right here is quintessential consolation meals. Amongst the layers of chewy cod, creamy potato, and gentle onions was a sprinkling of spinach, including a contact of earthiness to every chew.
Laurentina (€€) – Av. Conde Valbom 71A, 1050-067 Lisboa, Portugal – Open each Monday to Saturday from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm, closed each Sunday
O Beco
Picture credit score: O Beco
Lisbon’s charming Alfama neighborhood is overflowing with beautiful eateries, however O Beco is among the many greatest when bacalhau is worried.
After studying the menu outdoors, I assumed this place could be somewhat conventional, but the decor was stylish and fashionable. With the muted lighting and plush brown seating, the whole eating space felt cozy and romantic.
I used to be a little bit quick on time once I arrived, so I simply stopped in for a fast chew. Every time I’m craving one thing on the smaller aspect, I all the time discover some pastéis de bacalhau hit the spot.
These salted cod truffles get higher with each mouthful, and I used to be supremely impressed with every pastel de bacalhau at O Beco. They’re fairly just like pataniscas, however these pastéis have been heartier because of the wealthy potato base and thick batter, which mellowed the savory cod.
O Beco (€€) – Beco do Espírito Santo 9, 1100-222 Lisboa, Portugal – Closed each Monday, open Tuesday from 1:30 pm to five:00 pm and seven:00 pm to 12:00 am, Wednesday to Friday from 1:00 pm to five:00 pm and seven:00 pm to 12:00 am, and each Saturday and Sunday from 1:00 pm to five:00 pm and 6:00 pm to 12:00 am
As Salgadeiras
As Salgadeiras stands in what as soon as was one in all Bairro Alto‘s most beloved bakeries. Regardless of its former life as a hub for baked items, it’s now a hotspot for bacalhau in Lisbon.
The inside has all of the options of a standard Portuguese eatery, with excessive ceilings, a homely vibe, and a superb number of native wines.
I used to be attended to by a tremendous useful waiter who detailed the assorted Atlantic cod creations on the menu. Having change into such an avid fan of bacalhau à brás, which I’ve even included on my Lisbon meals and wine tour, I couldn’t assist however go for this hearty dish.
My favourite factor about bacalhau à brás is how shredding the candy cod, tender potatoes, and zingy onions ensures each chew is a mish-mash of textures and flavors. Whereas the scrambled eggs have been included to bind every part, in addition they added a trace of butteriness.
As Salgadeiras (€€€) – R. das Salgadeiras 18, 1200-396 Lisboa, Portugal – Closed each Monday, open each Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 pm to 12:00 am
D’Bacalhau
Picture credit score: D’Bacalhau
D’Bacalhau sits alongside the Jardim Garcia de Orta in Parque das Nações. Whereas it’s a little bit out of the middle, it hasn’t stopped it from changing into massively well-liked amongst locals and vacationers.
After I bought right here, it was quiet sufficient that I might take my choose between the indoor and out of doors eating areas. As a lot as I admired wanting on the expansive home windows and photo-covered partitions, I used to be desperate to take advantage of the chance to dine al fresco.
I assumed from the title that the line-up of bacalhau dishes could be substantial right here, however I had no concept there’d be upwards of 20! Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá was one of many bacalhau specialties I wasn’t too aware of, so this was a simple alternative for me.
It was a call that actually paid off as I savored each forkful of delicate bacalhau, thinly sliced potato, and bitter olives. Initially, I assumed the olives have been peculiar additions, however they deepened the opposite, a lot softer flavors.
D’Bacalhau (€€) – Zona Ribeirinha Norte, R. da Pimenta 45, 1900-254 Lisboa, Portugal – Open day-after-day from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm
Bacalhau
I’m as keen on Cais do Sodre‘s Time Out Market as anybody, however you’ll discover even tastier cod just some streets again at Bacalhau.
This ever-so-casual spot has a beautiful, vibrant inside and the warmest of workers members. In the event you get right here on the proper time, you may be as fortunate as I used to be to snag one of many few out of doors tables simply steps from the tramline.
Regardless that I got here for the bacalhau, I’d be mendacity if I mentioned the sardines and grilled octopus didn’t tempt me. Nonetheless, I needed to attempt the cod right here for fairly a while, so I opted for the bacalhau à lagareiro, which I’d heard nice issues about from associates of mine.
Easy, nourishing, and downright scrumptious, this dish consisted of oven-baked cod dusted with fruity olive oil and nutty garlic. The cod was tender but agency, and its delicate flavors have been complemented by a aspect of fluffy potatoes, barely candy carrots, and refreshing parsley.
Bacalhau (€€) – Rua de S. Paulo 170, 1200-274 Lisboa, Portugal – Open day-after-day from 12:00 pm to 12:00 am
Conclusion
With so many spots serving bacalhau in Lisbon, you’ll hardly ever must stroll various minutes to get your fingers on some scrumptious codfish. That mentioned, some eating places have a sure knack for creating extremely appetizing takes on bacalhau, and every eatery on this record does simply that!
